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Ice, stillness and adrenaline

It’s late August, and the sun is blazing. As the boat rounded the point at Engeneset, we caught our first glimpse of Engabreen – one of the mighty outlet glaciers of Svartisen. Ahead of us lay four days on the ice. We hoped to learn, push ourselves, and grow more confident in this glacier-covered landscape.

We were so eager to begin exploring the glacier that we nearly jogged up the steep, polished rock. At the top, the long glacier awaited, pressing its way down the mountainside. The warm tones of the rock stood in stark contrast to the cold colors of the ice.

At the foot of the glacier, we were met by a chaotic wall of ice. Deep crevasses and swelling forms in endless shades of blue and white. Beneath the ice, we could hear the sound of rushing water. I was hypnotized by the rhythm of droplets falling from countless icicles. I crouched down to watch and listen. Ice-cold drops landed on the back of my neck.

Crampons crunched against the ice as we stepped onto the glacier, and cold air rose to meet us. We moved slowly upward. Wherever I turned my gaze, there were intriguing formations – deep crevasses, jagged spires of ice. Everything in the landscape called to me – dark chasms, steep ice towers, brilliant blue ice. I had to remind myself to stay focused, to follow the rope team ahead and concentrate on the task at hand.

When it was my turn to climb the wall we had chosen for the day’s ascent, I felt the adrenaline start to pump through my body. I swung my ice axe into a patch of deep blue ice. It landed with a dull thud and held firm. There’s a unique feeling in knowing that only your axes and crampons are keeping you attached to the smooth face of the ice. With steady movements, I climbed upward. Nearing the top, I had to turn around and absorb the incredible view – towering mountains all around and the vast glacier bathed in afternoon sun. Far below, I could see the blue-green water of Lake Engabrevatnet.

On the way down from the glacier,

the sun hung low over the mountains

casting long shadows.

Blue and yellow in perfect harmony

Backlit, the ice glowed a deep violet hue, and a warm haze settled around us. We cooled our tired bodies in a deep meltwater pool and let our thoughts drift through the day’s impressions.